Step 1 – Lay shirt, front side down on your work surface, smoothing to remove any wrinkles. Note: I pre-soak my shirts in soda ash solution before folding, but if you prefer to soak after folding, be sure the garment is damp before proceeding.
Step 2 – Fold shirt in half lengthwise. Smooth out any wrinkles.
Step 3 – Starting about 1/3 of the way down, fold a section of the shirt up to about the lower edge of the sleeves. Smooth out any wrinkles.
Step 4 – create a second fold bringing a section up from the bottom to about ½ way over the first fold.
Step 5 – Using a straight-edge and a marking pencil, draw a diagonal line from a couple of inches from the bottom to the shoulder.
Step 6 – Starting at the bottom of the line, pinch together to create accordion folds, keeping the line straight, until you reach the top edge of the line.
Step 7 – Use string or sinew to tie a couple of inches from the line over toward the sides. Tie off.
Step 8 – Apply dyes to each section; flip over and repeat. Wrap in plastic and batch at least 8 hours.
And here is the end result:
This fold works best on lighter weight shirts, due to the bulk of the folds. As you can see, I have a lot of white showing in my pattern; this can be reduced by making sure you get dye deep into the folds. Have fun!
Here are a couple more examples of the double lightning bolt, to inspire you!